It can seem a difficult and confusing process when deciding on which boot is best for your upcoming high altitude expedition. In this article we will be taking a look at which boots you will need depending on the mountain you will be summiting and exploring the options that The Expedition Shop currently have in stock for you to choose from. By the end of this article you will hopefully have a much better idea on which boot you will need!
A Double Boot consists of an inner thermal boot that fits around your foot and is either laced up or tightened around your foot with a modern BOA system. It is then inserted into the outer boot consisting of the sole unit and gaiter. These boots are used on extended high-altitude mountaineering expeditions on glaciated peaks for additional warmth. The inner can easily be taken out to dry at night within your sleeping bag or in the sun during rest days!
The Sportiva G2 is the lightest, warmest and most sophisticated with a very efficient BOA system that allows the boots to tighten snuggly around your foot, but at a premium price. The Boreal G1 is a heavier and more basic boot but is very good value for money and forms the backbone of our hire stock, this boot requires a gaiter. The Scarpa Phantom 6000 is a lighter boot that has been taken up to 7000m, however is not quite as warm as the previous two options.
The 7000m boots are all Unisex.
The Expedition Shop stocks the widest range of High-Altitude boots anywhere in the UK, we are the only place you can try on multiple types of double and triple boots and compare the fit under one roof. We are the altitude experts!
Here are the options for a mountaineering boot for 7000m…
Mountaineering Boots for Peaks Above 8000m – Triple Boots (also required for Annapurna IV at 7526m)
The Ultimate protection for the world’s coldest and highest destinations. The triple boot consists of an insulated inner boot of the highest quality, an outer boot and an insulated gaiter that extends to just below the knee. The sole unit is made of a softer Vibram compound which has exceptionally good thermal properties reducing the transfer of cold from the ground into your foot. Generally, it is assumed you would be wearing crampons that would protect the relatively soft sole from wear! Unfortunately, on stony mountains like Aconcagua, wear will occur but that is the trade-off. The La Sportiva Olympus Mons EVO, the older Scarpa Phantom 8000 and the MILLET Everest Summit GTX have the more wear resistant sole units.
The brand new La Sportiva Olympus Mons Pro and La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube S has the added advantage of a BOA system that has replaced traditional lacing making adjustment at altitude far easier, but at a premium price! If you really feel the cold and want some added warmth the Scarpa Phantom 8000 Thermic HD has a built in battery powered Thermic System that can be switched on when needed. The Millet Everest GTX still remains a popular extreme altitude boot.
These boots are all Unisex and there is no specific gender fit.
OK, so those are the main choices you have for quality High Altitude boots and it is all then down to the fit. If you want to try them all on under one roof in one day then the only place in the UK or probably worldwide is The Expedition Shop. We are open 7 days a week, you will need to allow at least a couple of hours for your visit and we close at 5.30pm.
What if I don’t live in the UK or haven’t got time to travel North (just 2hrs 40 from London on the West coast line)? We offer an online remote boot fitting service, this costs £25 upfront and will be taken off your boots value if you decide to purchase with us. If you wish to do this, simply send us an enquiry e-mail to info@theexpeditionshop.co.uk and we will reply with a payment link and instructions on how to measure your feet (see our an example of our guide below). We will send you what we think will fit for you to try at home (normally we are 95% accurate!) If they don’t fit, you may return them as long as they have not been worn outside.
ORDER YOUR BOOTS – follow these procedures and we normally get your boot size correct
For this you will need the following:
What to do next (images below correspond to each number point)
1. Find your mountaineering socks. If you wear liner socks pop these on first.
2. Then add your thicker mountaineering socks.
3. Stand on a plain piece of A4 paper (standing up is best as it means your foot is fully weighted). If you know one foot is bigger than the other choose this foot.
4. Draw around your foot with a fine tip pen. If someone you live with can do this then it may be easier and more accurate.
5. Get the ruler and measure the longest and widest parts of your foot – adding dimensions in millimetres is the most accurate way but centimetres will do.
6. Take a photo of the outline showing the dimensions whilst holding your phone level over the image or scan this on to your computer.
7. Email this through to us at info@theexpeditionshop.co.uk
Hopefully by now you feel a little more confident in how to choose a boot for your upcoming high altitude expedition! If you would like to try some boots on you can simply pop into our Ambleside store where our expert and experienced staff are here to help. All Boot sizes listed on our website are in stock for you to try on with no pre ordering.